A Wild Wild African Safari

**Photo Credits to Nikita. Masai tribe performing welcome stunt for us.**

“TO TRAVEL IS TO DISCOVER THAT EVERYONE IS WRONG ABOUT OTHER COUNTRIES”
~ ALDOUS HUXLEY

Just as the quote says, we were also skeptical about traveling to an African country and soon we realised how wrong we were! This blog post is about our 6D/5N safari into the wilderness of Serengeti plains in Tanzania. We traveled in the month of August 2017 and we decided to choose Serengeti over Masai Mara (Kenya). Keep reading the post for the details.

It all started in the month of Mar-Apr 2017 when it crossed my mind to plan a trip which is outside of our comfort zone. I had kept hearing the stories around vast plains in Africa and the Great Migration. All the wildlife NatGeo documentaries only added the fuel to this thought. I started mailing into few groups to get some ideas and expectedly the responses were relatively few! I got few tips from a colleague who had been there more than once and the rough itinerary started to take shape. I decided on Serengeti as it was apparent that it is difficult to plan your trip around the Great Migration. Hence, to play safe, I chose Tanzania over Kenya which has equal, if not higher, chances to encounter African Big 5s.

My wife, Nikita, and I decided to make this trip a complete Safari adventure by returning through Dubai and have another Desert Safari!

We reached Kilimanjaro International Airport (JRO) from Bengaluru through Ethiopian Airlines and returned back via Kigali-Dubai through Rwand Air.

Our booking was for a Camping Safari with Karibu Adventures, who picked us from airport and put us in a hotel in Moshi for the overnight stay. We were supposed to start the camping next morning and hence we decided to spend the evening roaming in the city. Don’t get overexcited about anything in Moshi, as the city merely serves as the base for campers like us and hikers for Kilimanjaro.

Karibu is the swahili for welcome and that was the exact feeling we had throughout our trip. Meet our travel partners, Mr. X who was our tour guide and Mr. Y, who was our Porter cum Chef. Mr. X claims to have spent so much time in those plains that he could smell cats from a far distance!

**Mr. X is extreme right followed by Mr. Y near the jeep window**

I must say that the tour operators were quite friendly and took extra effort to prepare food for us as we both are vegetarians. Mostly, the breakfast was in camp followed by a packed on the go lunch and again evening tea-snacks in camp followed by a multi course dinner.

**The table was always full with so much** **variety. I don’t know how but our Chef even prepared Quiche for us in the camp tent!**

Day 1: Game drive to Tarangire National Park

The day started in Moshi where we packed all our stuff and headed right towards Tarangire National Park. As soon as we entered the conservation area, we started spotting a plethora of Baobab trees, Zebras, Giraffes, Elephants and Cheetah Chips! (Yes, our tour guide told us this name for the antelopes there). Little did we know that the next 5 days were all going to get filled with these African animals, so much so that we will stop caring about a Giraffe coming too close to our vehicle.

**Did you know that Zebras have a photographic memory and they have a symbiotic relation with Wildebeests?**

**Notice the shape of African continent in the animal’s ear. This is what sets this African giant apart.**

We were able to spot few cats on Day 1 as well but more on that later. The drive ended with an overnight tent camp stay in Twiga Campsite.

Day 2: Game Drive to Serengeti

The day was full with all African Big 5s, except Rhinos. We were able to spot few after kills and chase but not lucky enough to witness a hunt.

**As we enter the vast Serengeti plains**

The highlight of the day was visit to a Masai Village. The Village Pradhan was speaking impeccable English and showed us around. A Masai Village contains 15-20 small huts and is self sufficient in terms of food. They practice polygamy and even contain a market and school within.

After a dusty day throughout, we stayed overnight at tent camp in Nyani Campsite. This was the pinnacle of our safari as we stayed in the African jungle amidst the occasional roar of lion and hyena laughter. This campsite is different from others as it has no barricades and a camper might expect a late night visitor! The bathroom facility was bare minimum but clean nevertheless.

Few pics from the wilderness:

**This photo is definitely not doing the justice with the experience one has with multiple lions passing by so close to the vehicle**

**Can you spot a hidden Cheetah in the pic?**

Day 3: Serengeti in the air

This day started with an unforgettable experience of waking up quite early in pitch dark and waiting excitingly for our transfer to the Hot air ballon site.

We had a booking with Serengeti Balloon Safari who have had raving reviews on TripAdvisor. This is definitely another way of seeing the vast plains where you have the option to drift away from regular jeep tracks. The activity starts before sunrise and takes you all over the Serengeti, followed by Champagne and a sumptuous English breakfast in a scenic setting.

**Nothing can beat the experience of flying atop lion’s prides and hippo pools, just a few ft away and a mesmerising sunrise down the horizon**

Wondering what’s with the champagne? The answer lies in a tradition which early balloon pilots use to follow. They carried a Champagne bottle to showcase their association with the King, had they crash land in an uncharted territory. And the legacy continues!!

**Can Hippos and Crocs coexist? Yes, they do and share an interesting symbiotic relation again!**

After a morning booster, the day unwinded itself with a full day game drive. We stayed overnight in tent camp at the same Nyani Campsite.

Day 4: Early Morning Game Drive

We started early in the morning to catch few nocturnals and after a half day game drive at Serengeti, we proceeded towards the last leg of our journey to NgoroNgoro National Park.

**Herd of Wild Buffalos. Sheer strength. They cause more deaths than cats. Only the short tempered Hippos come close!**

The weather in NgoroNgoro was nothing short of spectacular with wind and cold air blowing. It was somewhat of a respite coming out of Serengeti heat. After the camp was setup, we had a hot water bath, followed by spicy maggi soup and a visitor to our camp – elephant!

We stayed over night in tent camp at Simba Campsite amidst the chilly winds.

Day 5: Game Drive to NgoroNgoro

We started descend to the NgoroNgoro crater and soon we spotted Red Flamingos by a lake. The only downside of the day was not able to spot any elusive Rhinos. I think to make up for it, Mr. X had an alternate plan to have lunch in the open by the side of hippo pool.

**What you are seeing is a huge cauldron, otherwise known as NgoroNgoro Crater, which is so rich in bio-diversity that it has no dearth of the biggies and the smallies**

**What can beat an open air lunch in the middle of a grassland**

Post lunch, we started our drive back to the JRO airport for the late evening flight to Dubai. After spending all these days and nights in camp tents, one can not stop but wonder how little we need and how less we can survive on. There was a little adventure waiting for us at the airport while we tried to board the Dubai RwandAir flight but lets keep that story for some other post!

Thanks for reading!

GB Hacks

Karibu Adventure covered everything from Day 0 till Departure. The rate was ~230 USD per pax per day. Moshi hotel was just OK. Sleeping bag and liners were extra charged at nominal rates.
Serengeti Balloon Safari was ~550 USD per pax.
Campsites are generally clean with common toilet and shower. Serengeti campsites are in the middle of jungle with very basic facilities and no Hot water.
Typically, with any tour operator, one chef and driver cum guide accompanies you. You carry all your luggage and camping stuff in the Safari jeep itself. One vehicle typically takes two couples but can be negotiated for single couple only.
We took camping safari. Other options are lodge safari which is twice as expensive.
Must carry: Binoculars, Head Torch and other personal camping basics.
Tanzania Visa is on arrival for Indians.
Only Yellow fever vaccine is mandatory for Indian travelers. It can be taken in Govt primary center in Bengaluru at nominal charge. Vaccine certificate is needed to travel.
There are more vaccines required for Masai Mara travel which is in Kenya. We were limited to Tanzania only.